Habishah the little nomad girl

Todra Gorge is quite grand and obviously a haven for rock climbing, but once you’ve seen it, there’s nothing much else to do, unless you’re a rock climber, or really really like gorges.

Todra gorge

According to the Lonely Planet, the Todra gorge region is excellent hiking country. So we decided to take a hike. Hassan recommended we do the loop trail around the mountain west of the gorge. “No need for a guide,” he said.  “Just go up the steps on the left after  the gorge, keep to the left of the valley, take the left fork after you pass the nomad camp, and follow the trail of donkey and sheep droppings. Should take 3 hours, or 4 hours if you stop a lot.”

View of Todra gorge and part of the loop trail from our riad

So we did that. Started to rain barely 15 minutes into the hike. Sara cursed the unpredictable weather, while Dylan was adamant it was a passing cloud. Turned back after it started getting heavy and cold, then suddenly the rain stopped and we turned around again.

After the rain, looking back to the start of the trail

We stuck to the left of the valley as Hassan advised, but there was no sign of a Berber camp nor a left fork. After two hours, as we were almost at the ridge top, we  came across a barely discernible trail that branched to the left. The trail petered out after around 500 metres, and we were left scrambling over loose rock and goat droppings on a steep slope, with civilisation nowhere in sight.

"Follow the donkey crap", said Hassan

An hour into the hike, the start of the trail is still in sight

Lost. Dylan waiting for a sign

Realising this wasn’t getting us anywhere, we sat down. That was when we spotted a nomad camp on the next hill. We decided to make our way there, and this turned out to be an excellent decision as we met Habishah and her family who live in a cave on the mountainside. When we got there, her mum was spinning wool and her grandfather was patching up an old pair of pants. We were invited for a spot of tea and bread. Luckily, we had packed some sandwiches and dates which we shared with them.

The Berber nomad camp

Cutie pie Habishah

Habishah's grandfather shared tea and bread with us

Habishah with her toy rocks

Watch videos of Habishah here and here.

It looked like it was about to rain again, so we made our way down the mountain after getting some directions (in Berber) from Habishah’s grandfather.

It's still a long way down

Civilisation! If you squint hard enough, you can see our riad

Farms and village along Todra river. Todra gorge is in the background

In all, we took around 4.5 hours to complete the loop, which includes 45 minutes spent being lost.

The Cabutlaris go hiking

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21 thoughts on “Habishah the little nomad girl

  1. mama says:

    Habishah is really cute.Poor thing.I wish we can adopt her.Comei sangat.Watch the video but it was not that smooth.Dia putus putus.Papa,kakak semua kirim salam.kakak said you should drink camel’s milk very sedap.

  2. Monyet King says:

    What the weather there like now? The place looks exciting enough for me to start thinking of going there.

  3. ginabentley says:

    As cute as Habishah is, what teared me up is the photograph of Sara seated with Habs’ and her grandfather sharing tea and food. Man, this is really what it is about. People getting to know people, despite barriers of language or geography! You two make me proud to call you friends!!
    *The gushing has ended*

    • What was amazing was that we could understand the grandfather explain in Berber that Habishah and Yusuf were cousins not siblings.

      People here are really friendly and generous. They always offer to share what they have even if they don’t have much. Today, a total stranger offered to share his tagine lunch with us while we were walking in the market.

  4. so touching guys.. am really loving this entry and pics and vids:)
    shes so cute!

  5. syima says:

    hi syaz..i just started reading your cabutlari. comeinya habishah tu. mcm nak cubit2 pipi dia. hehe.. love this entry. so jealous that u gotta meet and see people and places..but i’m happy for u. 🙂

  6. amat says:

    trekking mcm kat dalam lord of the rings nak pi buang the ring

  7. AnemOthman says:

    Wow! thats really awesome how u can understand habishah’s grandad! she is soooooo CUTE!! Alhamdulillah…keep sharing ya! Marvelous pix of the gorge. Squinted extra hard..tp x nampak pun..mujur u posted the zoomed pix hehehee. Take care peeps!

  8. Rose Azzura says:

    the best entry so far, syaz. Its like watching TLC on Astro and u both are the hosts!
    My fav pic wud be the shot of u, habishah and the grandfather sharing tea and bread – how generous of em to share wut little they have and made me realize how lucky and “luxurious” our life is here!
    Getting to know strangers from the other side of the world, sharing the lifestyle and discovering a lot of new things – priceless! Im proud of u, keep us posted and take care!

  9. Nos says:

    What a lovely, most unexpected way to experience a mountain hike! Getting lost can sometimes turn out to be the most memorable experience, ha! Such sweet looking children and loving grandpa in those harsh landscapes… we really have so much to be grateful for.

  10. […] of spending time with some very awesome people throughout this trip. We’ve had tea with Habishah and her nomad family in Morocco, we’ve made paella with Jose and Reitxel in Toledo, and we’ve celebrated our […]

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